My desiel pump seals on my mitsubishi pajero 2.8

[Iceman]

As some of you will know, I have been having problems with the front seal in my fuel pump(Deisel).

Usual symptoms, starts fine and runs for a while then cuts out, getting progressivly worse as time goes by.

Thought of various ways of stopping the fuel draining back into the tank(as this is what happens when the front seal goes) but could not decide on what route to take, barring getting them done. Heard horror stories of £400-£600 to get them sorted.

Well finally bit the bullet and had then done yesterday, by a chap called Steve, been working on Paj's for years and still does.More details and phone number here Steve's phone number (http://www.plcuk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=10503).
Dropped the car over to him Thursday evening and he said it will be ready Friday lunch time. Phoned him just after lunch and sure enough all was ready. Couldnt pick it up until today as I was helping Mitsue move.
Dropped in to pick it up and he says, right take her for a trip down the road, its not been started since yesterday.
Jumped in and fired her up, what a difference, started right on the button and never missed a beat, took her out on the raod and what a difference, seems like shes faster than before and ticks over better. Kickdown is much better too and overall she seems more responsive.

Total cost to me including an anti freeze top up and engine oil top up, plus a couple of silly little things I hadnt even noticed, was £175 all in. All in all a very happy bunny.

On a side note, a mate of mine had his Paj overheat and cook the head. Steve quoted him, wait for it, £750 this included a brand new fully built up head and gasket set, anti freeze and any oil. Oh and this included labour as well.
He definately does use new heads and not recon ones as I saw the actual boxed head before it was fitted.
Personaly I think that has got to be the deal of the century.
He also does servicing and other stuff as well and is very keenly priced.

[markbass]

nice one geoff looks like he could become the essex fuel pump specailist :wink:

[Iceman]

He is normally quite busy, but will always try and get you in.


I dont normally advertise I quite beleive him too.

[LePaj]

Glad you got sorted there, sounds really good deal :D

Same prob here, but decided to take the pump off myself (with the help of Den) on Friday and sent it away for seals and also full re-furb at the same time. Just seems worth doing it as the pump'f off. Hope to get it back this week and have it all up and running again soon :D

Been quoted silly prices, anything from £500 to over £1000 for the re-furb and re-calibration.

Let us know if it makes a difference to your fuel consumtion :wink:

[Iceman]

One tip that he and another engineer gave me, is to do all your timing from the top end of the motor. This is due to the fact that the crank pulley is rubber mounted and the timing marks may have shifted as the rubber moves and you could be a tooth out at some point.


HTH

[LePaj]

:wink: cheers, will remeber that when it goes back together :D

[denviks]

One tip that he and another engineer gave me, is to do all your timing from the top end of the motor. This is due to the fact that the crank pulley is rubber mounted and the timing marks may have shifted as the rubber moves and you could be a tooth out at some point.


HTH


thats cool then.we did the timing from the top and the bottom and marked everything so that it has to go back in to the right place :wink: :D :D :D :D

[johncolincooil]

Hi
I have 98 2.8td and have read all the stories which sound similar but not quite the same. The car fires up first time, chugs and splutters out white smoke for about two minutes and then eventually, when it has warmed up, runs ok for the rest of the day. Feels slightly down on power but not too bad.
If I try to pull straight away first thing in the morning , the engine dies a death after 30 metres, and then is a pig to start, blowing out huge amounts of white smoke. I bought a fuel pump seal of ebay and took it to a friendly mechanic who was very reluctant to fit it because the fuel filter was absolutely fine, no black bits. He told me that when he started the engine and pumped the primer the engine worked ok. He suggested air in the fuel line, but there are no apparent leaks and there is no fuel on the ground. Would a non return valve help and if so, what diameter is the fuel line?

[gegs750k4]

could be some thing as simple as the fuel pick up pipe in the tank or just out of the tank being porous. might not leak out but would draw air in. tink i paid about £15 for a recon unit off eblag and about 15 minutes to fit. if you fit a none return valve you will just mask a problem that will get worse

[Nick4X4]

took it to a friendly mechanic who was very reluctant to fit it because the fuel filter was absolutely finewhy would there be black bit's in the fuel filter if the seal was breaking up??
the fuel filter is before the pump not after it!!! plus the seal does not always breaks up! sometimes it's just worn.
take it back and ask him to fit the seal, and yes if you pump the primer and it runs fine shows that it is the seal.

[johncolincooil]

Thanks for the advice. Went back to the mechanic and he point blank refused to do it, stating that if the seal had gone, there would be diesel dripping out, which there isn't. He is convinced that the pump will have gone completely, but the car is still running, although not as well as it used to.
This fault developed about two months ago almost overnight, and now I'm wondering how long I can keep on driving it in this condition without seriously damaging it.

[gegs750k4]

find another mechanic, he obviously doesn't know squat about the problem so i would be very dubious about letting him rip it to pieces. if you give your location someone on here may know someone localish to ya[smilie=thatworks.g:

oh and when the seal goes it leaks internally so you won't see a leak.

[ripface]

Hi All,

I have a '97 Pajero 2.8TD which has some of the "pump seal" symptoms. Even with new glow plugs it takes a couple of goes to get going from cold, and is lumpy at tickover until warm. Once warm the only issue is that it occasionally cuts out a junctions .. but will always start afterwards on the button. The idle is a bit wayward and can offer to cut out when revs drop ... but very seldom does.

Is this an early indication of seal issues. Is there any good "How To"s to change the seals yourself? I'm a reasonable amateur mechanic .....

... ish!

Cheers,
Ripface.

[gegs750k4]

yeah, sounds like the pump seal. pretty sure theres a write up on it somewhere but you will have to search for it[smilie=umm2.gif]

[ripface]

yeah, sounds like the pump seal. pretty sure theres a write up on it somewhere but you will have to search for it[smilie=umm2.gif]

Found it!! Hmmm ... looks like I go my work cut out for me!

http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22531&sid=9f6f6cb1645143d9df9a2cdcf23ece46

Cheers,
Ripface.

[horseracer]

hi all

[horseracer]

there is air in my fuel pipe from my tank to fuel filter and it is hard to start till i prime it and get all the air out of the system although there are still air bubbles in the feed it runs like a dream what could i do to fix this anyone got any info please thank you

[broke it]

nick give the man a chance bless lol he was only trying to help

[gegs750k4]

there is air in my fuel pipe from my tank to fuel filter and it is hard to start till i prime it and get all the air out of the system although there are still air bubbles in the feed it runs like a dream what could i do to fix this anyone got any info please thank you
tank pick up pipes, pull the rear carpet back in the boot. take off the round inspection plate under it and have a good look at the steel pipes coming out of the plate. they rot here and daw air in, ten you have the 2 flexible pipes off there. check the connections and general condition. after this you are on your back under the truck getting crappy near the axle. the flexible pipes join onto steel pipes and these can corrode inside the clamps that secure them to the body (mine went there and was a pig to find. then your up to the filter housing itself, these can crack and seals can perish too.
that should keep you busy for a while m8. hope it helps:)

[horseracer]

thanks geg mate i will get on it first thing tommorow i have already done the tank pipes as they were rotten so i repaired them so i will run a new pipe from the tank to the filter,again thanks and i will let you know how i go on best wishes

[horseracer]

tank pick up pipes, pull the rear carpet back in the boot. take off the round inspection plate under it and have a good look at the steel pipes coming out of the plate. they rot here and daw air in, ten you have the 2 flexible pipes off there. check the connections and general condition. after this you are on your back under the truck getting crappy near the axle. the flexible pipes join onto steel pipes and these can corrode inside the clamps that secure them to the body (mine went there and was a pig to find. then your up to the filter housing itself, these can crack and seals can perish too.
that should keep you busy for a while m8. hope it helps:)
can anyone show me how to time a mitsu shogun 2.8 turbo desiel please re bill

[horseracer]

greg there was loads of air in pipes fitted new seal to injection pump and no problem starting now please check that your seal in pump is okay as when there is air in fuel pipes this can be the cause regards bill.:)[smilie=romanjury.g::-k